Tibrogargan

Caves Route

Queensland’s own mountaineering-style classic that has introduced the climbing experience to many a gibbering bumbly. Most of the rock on the route is quite worn making route-finding easy. Many parties rope up for three pitches, interspersed with unroped scrambling. Start: 20m R of where the East face walking track meets the rock. Marked CR.

1. 20m (4) Traverse out R and up rock steps with surprising exposure to ledge and mouth of Cave 1. Belay off rap station. Scramble into Cave 1 and up into the big Cave 2. Walk to far L side of this. 2. 30m (4) Traverse carefully out L side of cave until possible to move up to ledge. Up steep wall above with little pro to ledge and rap station on R

3. 100m (-) From the ledge follow the worn track through the scrub for 100m or so until you hit rock again. 4. 150m (4) Walk R along cliff base to below obvious easy chimney on south facing wall. A hard start (15 or so) gets you in the chimney which is easily climbed to top. 5. Follow the ridge W to summit of Tibrogargan.

Belay off rap station at ledge by entrance to Cave 1

Looking up into the chimney - a couple of fun moves ahead!

Looking down from the summit at top of the Caves Route. Chimney at R

The recent addition of two rap stations provide an easy, safe East face descent.

Richard Gerrish ‘the photographer’

Mark Squires ‘the climber’

Thank you For more rock climbing images and other photo collections, please go to www.markwsquires.photos

  • petebryant

    awesome story Mark! You should start a new # group for climbers on Steller...great way to show climbs and routes!

1/41