There is a place deep in Australia's coldest south, far from the main land, far from the Island state's peninsula, at the far edge of the archipelagos of Tasmania. To the Great Southern Antarctic Ocean, Goose and I landed in Hobart, just as the afternoon winter fog climbed the vast cliffs of Mount Wellington, twenty minutes from Hobart's central business district. We found a place in Battery Point from spectacular heights of Hobart's great distances that made for some beautiful 6am sunrises. What seemed like a nice adventure walk through the island's capital soon turned into a battle of hill climbs through the suburbs of Australia's early settlements - some of the most beautiful architecture. I will never live at the top of such an acute road, angled at 50° or there about.
What strikes me as most impressive of Tasmania is the regions ability to remain locally productive in an otherwise capitalistic, first world economy. The local Navy, i.e. the Tasmania Mona Roma takes you to their world famous Museum of Old and New Art, the very same place that creates Moo Brew - one of Australia's finest beers. As far as contemporary museums go MONA has most impressive architecture, combining old stylisation as a back drop for new technologies. Goose and I enjoyed charcuterie and Moo Brew in the golden, icy afternoon light to the tune of Fleet Foxes, while roosters, ducks, and a vibrant peacock wandered the surrounding environments.
By 5pm the sun has lowered itself enough to let the night in, and warmth is at an all time low. We landed at the platform of Salamanca, the food and wine capital of Hobart, to dimly light fairy lights that hung high in the branches of the trees that surround the streets. The mist amplifies the luminous to pave the way for the cobble stone streets reminiscent of Scandinavia, while open fires and alcohol warm the soul.
To travel Tasmania without the aid of a car is near impossible. With a car most landmarks are within the realms of the optimists, a few hours at least. I, more so than Goose, was up for the distance though Goose's cunning arguments made for what would be as greater decision as any
Forty minutes south of Hobart is a ferry ($30 return - cash only) that is the only method on and off of Bruny Island. We booked a boat that left from the far south of Bruny Island, another one hour and fifteen minutes on from the ferry, and travelled the coastline that leaves you for the Southern Antarctic Ocean - next stop, Antarctica. The cliffs tower above as if constantly watching your every move. Life in this area is few and far between. A few birds and if you're lucky enough to see a dolphin or two. Though the real stars of the show are the seals that made the effort to travel a few days north from the southern pole to eat, sleep, and fight one another on the islands that surround Bruny. But there is still so much for Goose to see.